For more information, contact Boatyard Program Manager Jenn Kuhn at firstname.lastname@example.org or call 410-745-4980.
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Upcoming Boatshop Programs
June 1 – Open Boatshop
June 3 & 4 – Women’s Woodworking
July 6 – Open Boatshop
July 8 – Nameboard Basics Workshop
July 19 – Basic Tool Sharpening for Woodworkers
August 10 – Open Boatshop
August 19 – Marlinspike Arts
Apprentice for a Day Schedule
June 24: Work on 25′ Draketail – 10am-4pm
July 1-2: Work on 25′ Draketail – 10am-4pm
July 8: Work on 25′ Draketail – 12:30-6pm (late start due to log canoe races)
July 9: Work on 25′ Draketail – 10am-4pm
July 15 -16: Work on 25′ Draketail – 10am-4pm
August 5-6: Work on 25′ Draketail – 10am-4pm
August 12-13: Work on 25′ Draketail – 10am-4pm
August 26: Pintail Launch – TBD
September 2-3: Project TBD – 10am-4pm
September 16: Project TBD – 12:30-6pm (late start due to log canoe races)
September 17: Project TBD – 10am-4pm
September 23-24: Project TBD – 10am-4pm
Apprentice For A Day Public Boatbuilding Program
Runs most Saturdays and Sundays
Journeyman Special: Choose any 4 classes for $150 CBMM members and $200 non-members Single classes: CBMM members $45 and non-members $55. Learn traditional boat building under the direction of a CBMM shipwright. You can be part of the whole process or just sign up for those aspects of building a boat that you want to learn. Must be 16 or older unless accompanied by an adult. Join Boatyard Program Manager Jenn Kuhn. Email questions to email@example.com or call 410-745-4980.
2016-2017 Construction: 25’ Draketail” Chesapeake Bay Fishing Launch A Hooper Island work boat with a reverse-rake round stern which is also referred to locally as “torpedo stern,” “dovetail,” or “ducktail”. These were the first type of power work boats developed in the bay region. Our Draketail will be built using plank on frame and started upside down on a strong-back. The bottom will be traditionally cross planked with bead and cove strip planking for the topsides. Materials: White Oak: Hard-wood & highly rot-resistant used for the keel, stem, chines, rails and bed logs. Atlantic White Cedar: Soft-wood/conifer used for planking Locust: Hard-wood used for knees and breast hook.
Each week we work on a specific topic which relates to the overall process of building a boat.
Full-sized drawing of the boat based on measurements or plans showing profile, half-breadths & body plan. Lofting details are the dimensions, shapes, and locations of all parts: stem, keel, expanded transom, molds as well as seats, mast centerboard, trunk and engine.
The body plan (cross-section) shapes are traced from the lofting to the mold stock. Molds become permanent frames in some boats, but often are temporary until the hull is complete. The expanded transom, keel and stem are built at the same time.
Accuracy and strength are vital. Level the strong-back, draw center and station lines, then fasten molds, stem, transom and keel.
Plank shapes are derived by lining off the erected molds, using battens to divide the area to be covered. Spiling is the process of measuring each plank from this shape. The shaped planks are dry fitted, smoothed and fastened in place.
AFTER BOAT IS UPRIGHT
Many components must be built and installed, such as knees, breast hook, in-wales, seat risers, seats, and centerboard trunk. Removable parts including spars, centerboard, rudder and tiller, oarlocks, oars, sails, hardware and rigging are all part of the process.
From the plans, the dimensions, the type of spars and rigging are determined. Timber for spars is milled, cut to dimension, assembled and then shaped. Many of these small, light sailing craft benefit from fitting a hollow wooden mast, which can be constructed using the “bird’s mouth” technique.
ADHESIVES AND FASTNINGS
Discussion of relative strength and durability of glues, caulking compounds and metal fasteners of all types helps us to determine the optimum combinations to ensure long boat life.
From the plans, we determine the overall dimensions of the sail, lofting it on the floor with the draft location and desired camber in mind. After adjusting each panel and sewing them together we adjust the outside dimensions adding curves and hollows where intended. Some of the final touches are hand sewn grommets and bolt ropes.